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San Francisco has a rich culinary history that offers something unique in every one of its 49 square miles.

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Sewn together as a culinary quilt, the squares tell the story of our diverse, exciting and food-obsessed city.

While restaurants get the most publicity and seem to be on the tip of everyone's tongue, scores of other enterprises have built the foundation and contributed to the city's culinary depth.

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To illustrate that depth, The Chronicle's Food & Wine staff divided the city into a 49-square-mile grid and went on the hunt for the most iconic food business in each square mile. Our goal was to scour our assigned neighborhoods, come up with a list of interesting options and then pick one that defines the neighborhood and reflects the diversity of the city.

It wasn't an easy task, and led to many discussions in staff meetings, over lunches and at impromptu gatherings around our desks. In Square 12, for example, we debated endlessly about whether to choose Tadich Grill, with roots back to 1849, or Mow Lee Shing Kee sausage company, which opened in Chinatown 155 years ago.

Saying we were obsessed with the project for the past several months would be an understatement. It consumed us, and we consumed it.

In the scouting process,polo lacoste, we discovered nooks and crannies of areas that we don't often write about but that show different facets of the city.

Some squares are packed with prime food places; others required digging, research and repeated field trips. Square 5, for example,outlet prada, contains most of Chinatown, North Beach and Fisherman's Wharf; we could have come up with at least 50 prime contenders. Others, such as Square 1, which covers parkland and ocean, were more challenging, but we still found something that goes to the very core of who we are and why we live here.

Today, in this special issue of Food & Wine,peuterey prezzi, we'll give you an overview of the 49 squares. Starting next Sunday, we'll profile one square a week, going into more depth about its culinary character. These will also be accompanied by videos on The Chronicle's iPad application and online at </a>.

We think you'll discover, as we did, that San Francisco boasts a profound culinary heritage waiting to be discovered.

- , Chronicle executive food and wine editor

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Square 1.

<strong /> In what other major metropolis can you toast s'mores and sleep under the stars in the middle of a national park? The Presidio of San Francisco, tucked away in the city's northwest corner, offers nearly 1,500 acres of historic military buildings,doudoune moncler pas cher, forest and hiking trails - all within city limits.

At its highest point is Rob Hill Campground, the only overnight campground in San Francisco. Just two miles away from popular restaurants like A16 and Ristobar, Rob Hill's newly renovated facilities impart both an urban and outdoor spirit. Upgrades include new bathrooms, four camping sites and a large stone campfire - perfect for testing your s'mores-making skills.

Just remember, reservations must be made in advance.

Rob Hill Campground, the Presidio of San Francisco; (415) 561-5444 or </a>. Camping season runs April 1 to Oct. 31. Reservations required.

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2. With San Francisco's stunning natural beauty,jordan femme, we're a city that loves the outdoors. And Sports Basement in the central Presidio has become the de facto meeting ground for outdoor enthusiasts.

But, it's not just the gear that attracts runners, bikers and swimmers to this sporting goods shop just south of Crissy Field. It's the GU. As in sports gels, drinks, chews and energy bars.

Sports Basement has the largest selection of sports nutrition products we've ever seen, from the 16 varieties of Clif bars to nearly a dozen flavors of GU gel and vitamin water.

The collection is bigger than many San Francisco , and the store even provides a handy folder that compares the nutritional value of each.

Sports Basement, 610 Old Mason St., (415) 437-0100 or </a>. Open daily.

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3. The Marina is flooded with neighborhood gems, from A16 to Liverpool Lil's. But Lucca Delicatessen, which has served customers since 1929,ralph lauren pas cher, is the place with lines out the door during peak hours.

Known for its killer sandwiches - you can even order them online - this tiny Italian deli also offers homemade ravioli, soups and sauces, in addition to hard-to-find Italian imports such as Lauretana water from the Biella Alps.

Lucca is a mainstay in other ways, too: It's now in its third generation of Bosco family ownership.

Lucca Delicatessen, 2120 Chestnut St.; (415) 921-7873 or luccadeli.com. Open daily.

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4. Encompassing parts of Fisherman's Wharf, Fort Mason, and much of the action on Union, Chestnut and Polk streets, this area includes Ghirardelli Square, home of the famed chocolate first produced by in 1852; Buena Vista Cafe, famous for Irish coffee; and the original Swensen's, opened in 1948.

However, our choice is Greens. Opened in 1979, this vegetarian restaurant from the features organic produce from its own gardens and is in a former military post with roots back to 1776. Greens single-handedly changed the perception of vegetarian food in the United States.

Greens, Bldg. A, (Buchanan and Marina); (415) 771-6222 or greensrestaurant.com. Dinner nightly; lunch Tuesday-Saturday; brunch Sunday.

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5. No square is as densely packed with history as this one that includes Chinatown, North Beach and Fisherman's Wharf. Dozens of contenders abound: In Chinatown, itself established in the 1840s, there's the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, started in 1962; the Golden Gate Bakery, serving the best custard tarts for more than 35 years; and , in business more than 100 years and known for rice noodles.

North Beach holds the distinction of having the Saloon, opened in 1861 and the oldest bar in San Francisco; Molinari, the home of air-dried salami since 1896; and Liguria,prada occhiali, known for focaccia since 1911. Then there's the waterfront populated with places like Alioto's which began as a fish stand in 1925 and is still family owned.

That said, we chose the beacon of great coffee: Graffeo. It honors the city's coffee tradition that extends back more than 100 years with such names as Hills Brothers, MJB and Folger's, and on through the Beat Generation with places like .

Graffeo, which opened in 1935, is one of the oldest artisan coffee roasters in the United States. It's family run and still roasts some of the best beans in the city.

Graffeo, 735 Columbus Ave.; (415) 986-2420 or graffeo.com. Open daily.

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6. There's no lack of food businesses along this section of the bay that stretches from Pier 1 to Pier 23 - the 42-year-old Waterfront restaurant, Pier 23 restaurant and the Tcho chocolate factory. But, they pale in comparison to the Ferry Building, located in an 1898 landmark building at the end of Market Street.

Inside there are at least 10 places to eat, including Hog Island Oyster Company, Slanted Door and Boulette's Larder. It's also home to Acme Bread Co,polo lacoste GBPUSD Stock Quote Stock Price for G., Cowgirl Creamery and dozens of other businesses where you can get produce, mushrooms, sausage, pastries and more. And it's the area's premier farmers' market on Saturday morning. It truly captures the soul of the San Francisco food experience.

Ferry Building/Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, Pier 1. Open daily; hours vary depending on the business.

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7. The first Cliff House, built into a rocky curve along the Great Highway, was erected in 1896. Nearly 150 years - and several incarnations - later, it remains one of area's best scenic spots, especially for tourists visiting San Francisco. Dining options include a casual walk-in bistro, the more upscale Sutro's (pictured) and a Sunday Champagne brunch.

Never mind that the cuisine has seen its ups and downs. The Cliff House - an undisputed San Francisco institution - is the sure winner of this square,lunette ray ban pas cher, which runs from the outer avenues in the Richmond through Ocean Beach. And with the exception of the newly refurbished Louis' and the restaurant at Seal Rock Inn, there isn't much in the way of competition.

Cliff House, 1090 Point Lobos Ave.; (415) 386-3330 or cliffhouse.com. Sutro's open for lunch and dinner daily. Bistro open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch seatings at 10 a.m., noon and 2 p.m.

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8. Margarita, anyone? That's why people head to Tommy's Mexican Restaurant - most would argue that the Tequila cocktails are the best in the city.

And they should be. Although the late owner opened the restaurant with his wife in 1965 to feature the foods of his native Yucatan, he and his son, Julio, can be credited with popularizing high-end Tequila, claiming to pour the most extensive collection of 100 percent agave Tequila outside of Mexico.

Tommy's took the spirit to a new level in San Francisco - when most still expected to find a worm in the bottom of the bottle - so it wins by a margin in this square. Still, with Aziza, Ton Kiang and Pizzetta 211 in the same stretch of the central Richmond, it wasn't an easy choice.

Tommy's Mexican Restaurant, 5929 Geary Blvd. (near 23rd Avenue); (415) 387-4747 or tommystequila.com. Open Wednesday-Monday.

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9. San Francisco has long been known for its sourdough bread, and that bread can be traced back to Boudin Bakery - it opened in 1849 during the Gold Rush. After the 1906 earthquake, the entire operation was moved from North Beach to its current location at 10th Avenue and Geary. The mostly windowless building looks rundown, but a bakery on the side offers fresh loaves to nearby residents and visitors.

You can't argue with the history of Boudin, but Haig's Delicatessen, New May Wah Market and Good Luck Dim Sum made for some other strong contenders in this food-saturated square, which covers much of the Inner Richmond.

Boudin Bakery, 399 10th Ave. (at Geary); (415) 221-1210 or boudinbakery.com. Open Monday-Saturday.

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10. Before Nawal Kharsa, chef and owner of San Francisco's King of Falafel, served the crusty chickpea orbs to customers at her tiny liquor store and restaurant more than 40 years ago, few had ever sampled this Middle Eastern specialty. Now, she's frying hundreds of falafel balls each day, serving them with other Mediterranean salads and spreads. Many longtime customers say it's as good as ever - some even call it the best in the city.

That makes King of Falafel the victor in this square, which has several commercial areas,<a href="" target="_blank">air jordan</a>, including busy Divisadero and California streets, Laurel Village and the more exclusive Laurel Heights area. Tataki, which is the first sushi restaurant in San Francisco to use only sustainable seafood, was another strong choice.

King of Falafel, 1801 Divisadero St. (at Bush Street); (415) 931-5455 or kingoffalafelsf.com. Open Monday-Saturday.

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11. The section of Polk Street near lower Russian Hill and Nob Hill is home to an establishment named an America's Classic by the James Beard Foundation: Swan Oyster Depot, a tiny fish shop-cum-eatery that has served up the freshest of seafoods for nearly a century.

There are only a dozen and a half stools at the narrow, well-worn marble counter that's known for its Dungeness crab Louie and creamy clam chowder. No reservations are accepted, so there is generally a long wait for a seat. However, once you're inside,<a href="" target="_blank">air jordan</a>, order a beer or glass of wine and eat to your heart's content.

Swan was purchased by Sal Sancimino in 1946 and is now run by his sons and grandsons,ralph lauren femme [s60v5] in C6 'system comes with software, who dish up nearly as many wisecracks as they do cups of chowder.

Other notable old-line restaurants that have added to the scene and are still going strong include Tommy's Joynt, which has been owned by the Vesprin family since 1947, and House of Prime Rib, which opened two years later.

Swan Oyster Depot, 1517 Polk St. (near Sacramento Street); (415) 673-1101 or swanoysterdepotsf.com. Open until 5:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Cash only.

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12. It was a close race in this square: the Financial District's Tadich Grill versus a family-run Chinese sausage producer founded in 1856 on the edge of Chinatown - Mow Lee Shing Kee. Our nod went to Tadich, which is older by less than a decade.

You can still find a 1930s-era seafood-centric menu and atmosphere at Tadich, the oldest restaurant in San Francisco and one of the oldest businesses in California. Since its founding in 1849, the restaurant has gone through a few name and location changes but has been owned by the Buich family since 1928. For a slice of old San Francisco, stop in to experience the dark wood and partitioned tables with period detail - and menu - which includes classic San Francisco dishes like the Hangtown Fry and classic sand dabs.

Tadich Grill, 240 California St. (near Battery Street); (415) 391-1849 or tadichgrill.com. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.

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13. The Embarcadero from Market Street to AT&T Park has plenty of home-run hitters, from Boulevard to Yank Sing. But we're giving our nod in this square to the leadoff guy, Java House.

This no-frills greasy spoon has been in business on Pier 40 since 1912, serving longshoremen, military personnel and Giants greats and fans alike over its 100-year history.

You'll find standard breakfasts and burgers at this waterfront dive, along with a blue-collar view of the Bay Bridge. Expect big crowds before Giants games - doubly so on a nice day - as fans pack in for a hot dog and beer.

Java House, Pier 40; (415) 495-7260, javahousesf.com. Open 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, closing times may vary on Giants game days.

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14. In this square sits a beachside restaurant rich in views and history. Though the Beach Chalet, in its current incarnation, is only 14 years old, the building was built in 1924 and opened a year later as a public beach house with an upstairs restaurant. In 1936, the Works Progress Administration commissioned Lucien Labaudt to paint murals of San Francisco during the Great Depression - a quick wander through the lobby and you're back in the late '30s. Soldiers occupied the building during World War II, and,doudoune moncler homme, in 1981, it achieved National Registry status. Head over for a dose of history, craft beers and a view unique to San Francisco.

Beach Chalet/Park Chalet, 1000 Great Highway; (415) 386-8439 or beachchalet.com. Breakfast (Beach Chalet only), lunch and dinner daily.

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15. This area of the Outer Richmond isn't as rich in food choices as some other squares, but it is home to Han Il Kwan, a few blocks east of the Balboa Theater. This Korean restaurant has been serving Korean specialties and for 20 years.

A mere 1.2 percent of San Franciscans are Korean, according to the 2010 U.S. Census, but we felt an honest representation of the city's ethnic diversity should include some bi bim bap and kalbi.

A few times a week, a tour bus pulls up out front, and the restaurant instantly floods with Korean speakers who know proper banchan from improper. If that's not a ringing endorsement, we don't know what is.

Han Il Kwan, 1802 Balboa St. (at 19th Avenue); (415) 752-4447. Lunch and dinner until midnight Tuesday-Sunday.

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16. Most of the restaurants in this square, which encompasses part of the Inner Richmond and a chunk of Golden Gate Park,<a href="" target="_blank">chaussures air jordan</a>, lie on Balboa Street: Sushi Bistro and Namu represent the new wave, with Cinderella Bakery and Katia's holding down San Francisco's old-school Russian demographic.

We contemplated including the park's Japanese Tea Garden, which was built in 1894, but ultimately decided it was less notable for its food than its design and age. At Cinderella, which opened in 1953, there's history and good food to boot. Babushkas chat in Russian over handmade piroshki, borscht and pelmeni, as they have for decades and,vuitton, we hope, will do for many more.

Cinderella Bakery, 436 Balboa St. (near Fifth Avenue); (415) 751-9690 or cinderellabakery,jordan femme.com. Open Tuesday-Sunday.

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17. Few areas have been as affected by a restaurant as the neighborhood known as North of the Panhandle, nicknamed NoPa.

Nopa is also the moniker of the restaurant from partners Laurence Jossel, his wife, Allyson, and associate Jeff Hanak. They opened Nopa in 2006 in the impressive space of a former bank with the intent of making this a neighborhood gathering spot. And the neighborhood does gather at the communal bar with its imaginative seasonal cocktails. But the Jossel's California-Mediterranean food coming from the dramatic open kitchen with rotisserie and wood-burning oven have made this a destination for food lovers throughout the Bay Area.

Nopa's little sister, Nopalito,prada, joined the family about three years later, offering impeccably prepared Mexican dishes like posole rojo and carnitas in a casual space a couple of blocks away.

Nopa, 560 Divisadero St. (at Hayes Street); (415) 864-8643 or nopasf.com. Dinner nightly, brunch weekends. Nopalito, 306 Broderick St. (near Oak Street); (415) 437-0303 or nopalitosf.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

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18. At least half a dozen neighborhoods claim part of this square mile, including some of the Lower Haight, Duboce Triangle and Alamo Square. From Belgian beer bar Toronado to Zuni Cafe, there's no shortage of opportunities to experience the flavors of the city.

However, in no other neighborhood have food, community and the San Francisco DIY spirit taken greater root than Hayes Valley. The area, which was once blighted by the earthquake-damaged Central Freeway,<a href="" target="_blank">air jordan femme</a>, is now home to a handful of innovative, albeit temporary, urban projects.

There's Proxy, a two-block stretch along Octavia Street, attempting to create a flexible environment where food and art shine. Here, you'll currently find Smitten Ice Cream, Ritual Coffee Roasters and the Museum of Craft and Design, all housed in renovated shipping containers. Public art installations and a rotating roster of food trucks are also part of the lineup, and Suppenkuche's offshoot, Biergarten, is set to join the party in the near future.

A stone's throw from Proxy, on Laguna and Fell streets, you'll also find Hayes Valley Farm. Founded in 2010 and operating with an interim-use agreement with the city, the farm has transformed the former freeway ramps into a thriving urban paradise. It's set to vacate its current location in February to make way for condominiums, and its operators are still determining its next location.

Proxy,borse prada, 432 Octavia St,longchamp. (between Hayes and Fell streets); proxysf.com. Hours vary.

Hayes Valley Farm, 450 Laguna St. (at Fell Street); hayesvalleyfarm.com. Volunteer days: Noon-5 p.m. Sunday, Wednesday and Thursday. The farm is also open throughout the week for various classes, workshops and events; check the website for details.

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19. Where SoMa touches the Mission, you'll find a grocery store that boasts organic, locally grown produce, a staggering collection of cheese from around the globe and an equally impressive selection of bulk goods and nutritional supplements. The only thing you won't find here: meat.

Vegetarian cooperative market the Rainbow Grocery, which began as an ashram in the '70s, has been serving San Franciscans - vegetarians, vegans and omnivores alike - for more than 35 years.

In 1996, the store moved to its current location. At the time, the area was viewed as economically depressed, but, in recent years, it's experienced a culinary renaissance, thanks to newcomers like cocktail mecca Bar Agricole, Anthony Mangieri's Una Pizza Napoletana and the upscale diner fare at Citizen's Band.

Rainbow Grocery, 1745 Folsom St. (at 13th Street); (415) 836-0620 or rainbow.coop. Open daily.

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20. Sure, the garlic fries at AT&T Park are a must, but we're giving our Mission Bay nod to Distillery 209, the only distillery in the world built over water. It's home to No. 209, the gin company owned by the Rudd Family of Rudd Family Estate Winery and Dean & Deluca fame.

Here, gin is made using Old World techniques, in small batches by "ginerator" Arne Hillesland (pictured), with the cooling San Francisco Bay water acting as a natural, year-round temperature control.

Call it home sweet home - it's often said that the gin martini was born in San Francisco.

Distillery 209, Pier 50, No. B; (415) 369-0209 or distillery209.com/.

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21. There might be no better meeting place for the city that was and the city that is to be than the stretch of Judah Street between 45th and 46th avenues.

On the southeast corner at 45th sits Outerlands, where Lana Porcello and David Muller have made California cuisine a neighborhood staple. Yet for this square we had to hand it to the contender on the same corner a block west.

Helene An and her family began building their restaurant mini-empire when they bought an Ocean Beach deli during a visit from Vietnam in 1971. Four years later, as Saigon was collapsing, the family fled the city and opened Thanh Long, ultimately expanding a storefront that claimed to be San Francisco's first Vietnamese restaurant into a bustling institution that still prides itself on the same classic dishes - roast crab and garlic noodles, prepared in a windowless "secret" kitchen that preserves a secret recipe.

Decades before Charles Phan came along, Thanh Long was a beacon of cuisine from a country that many Americans would rather have forgotten. But San Francisco is different, and the Ans' cooking was soon embraced by a far more diverse crowd than most: couples of all colors, families out for a fancy evening. Walk in from the fog on any given night, and that diversity is still on fine display.

Thanh Long, 4101 Judah St. (at 46th Avenue); (415) 665-1146 or anfamily.com. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday.

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22. If it's Asian cuisine you're after, it's worth a trip to this strip of the central Sunset that flanks Golden Gate Park - it's teeming with storefront produce markets, Asian specialty grocers, tapioca drink and dessert shops, and other small ethnic specialty restaurants. Much of the area is residential, save for another two-block square near Noriega and 20th Avenue.

But within a three-block radius of Irving Street - on and around 19th Avenue - you'll find everything from Marnee Thai and the Middle Eastern Sunrise Deli to Old Jerusalem Cafe and, our top choice in the square, Pho Phu Quoc (better known as PPQ to regulars).

The always-packed restaurant serves steaming bowls of pho that are large enough to share. Since fans call it one of the best places for the Vietnamese noodle soup in the city - many of us included - we'd argue that it's the top choice in the square.

Pho Phu Quoc, 1816 Irving St. (near 19th Avenue); (415) 661-8869. Lunch and dinner daily.

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23. Berkeley's Cheese Board Collective - a worker-owned business that's been around since the late 1960s - gave rise to Arizmendi cooperative bakery in 1997. Three years later, a San Francisco branch opened its doors in the Inner Sunset, specializing in artisan breads, pizza and morning pastries.

Though it's been at this location for only a little over a decade, its pedigree and history make it the best candidate for this square mile of the Sunset, which includes the densely populated stretch of Irving Street and the surrounding area. Art's,louis vuitton outlet, Pasquale's Pizza and Park Chow were other strong contenders.

Arizmendi Bakery, 1331 Ninth Ave. (at Irving Street); (415) 566-3117 or arizmendibakery.org. Open Tuesday-Sunday.

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24. It's great to have a neighborhood place where everyone knows your name. For the Castro District, it is Twin Peaks Tavern, which calls itself the gay Cheers.

Originally a bakery that became an Irish pub in the 1920s, The Tavern was purchased in 1972 by two lesbians who immediately installed clear floor-to-ceiling windows, a groundbreaking move for a gay bar back then. Current owners Jeff Green and George Roehm were originally bartenders but bought the place about 30 years ago. They still have the old wooden bar, keep the music at a conversational level and prohibit Wi-Fi.

Don't expect any nibbles - there is no food (even if you venture in at 8 a.m.), but you might try for a cookie from the bakery next door,sac longchamp pliage. One more claim to fame: All the bar scenes in the 2008 movie "Milk," featuring Sean Penn as Harvey Milk, were filmed here.

Twin Peaks Tavern, 401 Castro St. (at Market and 17th streets); (415) 864-9470 or twinpeakstavern.com,longchamp. Open daily until 2 a.m.

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25. This square mile, where Noe Valley, the Castro and the Mission collide, is bursting with culinary goodies. This is especially true along 18th Street, near Dolores Park. The stretch between Dolores and Guerrero streets is home to acclaimed food destinations like Tartine Bakery, Delfina Restaurant, Pizzeria Delfina and neighborhood touchstone Bi-Rite Market and Creamery.

You'll also find another neighborhood gem: nonprofit community center 18 Reasons. Part of the Bi-Rite family, 18 Reasons furthers the company's mission of creating community through food by offering hands-on food workshops, community dinners (such as a recent one featuring Cowgirl Creamery, pictured above and below), wine tastings and art shows.

Past events have included a cooking and gardening summer camp for kids, whiskey tastings and workshops on making noodles from around the globe.

18 Reasons. 3674 18th St. (near Guerrero and Dolores streets). Go to 18reasons.org for event and membership info.

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26. You'll find a convergence of cultures and flavors where the western edge of Potrero Hill and the heart of the Mission meet.

Savvy food lovers know the area to be a culinary wonderland - taquerias, torterias and panaderias abound. In recent years, ultra-hip food spots like Humphry Slocombe and Dynamo Donuts have entered the scene. Even historic Anchor Brewing Co. makes its home in Square 26.

With such an embarrassment of riches, deciding which taste would best represent the area was a tough call. Ultimately, it was La Palma Mexicatessen's mouthwatering tortillas (which Julieta Cifuentes is making, above) and huaraches that won our hearts. Established in 1953, La Palma offers a variety of Mexican and Central American ingredients and prepared foods, including freshly made salsas and succulent carnitas that can be purchased by the pound.

La Palma Mexicatessen, 2884 24th St. (at Florida Street); 647-1500 or lapalmasf.com. Open daily.

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27. Philanthropy wins out in Potrero Hill, home of the San Francisco Food Bank. Here, nearly 45 million pounds of food is collected each year - the equivalent of about 100,polo ralph lauren pas cher Fuleii fuleii ZOL blog - blog log,000 meals per day - and distributed to the city's needy through neighborhood pantries, soup kitchens, senior centers and other nonprofit outlets.

It's worth a visit for any San Franciscan, especially those looking for volunteer opportunities. You can sort, pack and shelve food on weekdays, weeknights or weekends. And you can even come as a family - kids over the age of 8 are welcome on select weekend projects.

San Francisco Food Bank, 900 Pennsylvania Ave.; (415) 282-1900 or sffoodbank.org.

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28. From its nondescript exterior and glowing neon sign, Old Mandarin Islamic looks like any of the city's myriad Chinese restaurants. Nothing could be further from the truth. Old Mandarin is a unique destination for adventurous halal fare from Beijing and the underrepresented northern Chinese region.

Here, fiery hot pots are king (and perfect for groups), while lamb - of all shapes and sizes - is a must-order. Cumin-spiced lamb ribs fall off the bone, while lamb dumplings and lamb liver dishes make frequent appearances in the tiny dining room.

Old Mandarin Islamic, 3132 Vicente St. (near 42nd Avenue); (415) 564-3481. Lunch Wednesday and Friday-Monday; dinner nightly.

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29. Even with a butchery resurgence in recent years, the family-owned butcher shop is no longer a ubiquitous presence around town.

However, Guerra Quality Meats is a relic. Opened in 1954 by Mark and Battista Guerra, the butcher shop has evolved into a full-fledged food hub in its half century on Taraval.

It's still owned by the Guerra family - Mark and Battista's sons have taken over - and the meat counter has expanded to a shop featuring a deli and gourmet grocery area, hawking everything from house-made stocks to house-made sandwiches.

But the anchor remains the butchers (including Matt Pettie, left), carving chops and pounding scaloppine for the hungry neighborhood.

Guerra Quality Meats, 490 Taraval St. (at 15th Avenue); (415) 564-0585 or guerrameats.com. Open daily.

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30. Ask West Portal natives where they eat several times in a week, and the answer you'll probably get is Sub Center. Bullshead next door just might make the best burger in the hood (or even the city, as championed by many West Portalites), but Sub Center has been churning out its signature toasted sandwiches for more than 25 years.

Most days still bring a (quickly moving) line out the door, but that just means there's more time to stare at the memorabilia on the walls. Once you get to the ordering counter, you'll witness the speed and precision of the staff, whipping up the sandwiches before tossing them into the oven and then pulling them out like clockwork. A sprinkle of tangy vinaigrette is applied before serving. There is no other place like it in town.

Submarine Center, 820 Ulloa St. (near West Portal Avenue); (415) 564-1455 or submarinecenter.com. Open daily.

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31. This square, which encompasses most of Diamond Heights, is entirely residential save for the Diamond Heights Shopping Center,<a href="" target="_blank">sac pliage longchamp</a>, where a Safeway, a bakery, a small Japanese joint and All Season Restaurant competed for the square's title.

It wasn't a hard choice: All Season, which opened just last year and specializes in dim sum - one of the city's signature styles of food - showcases its seafood in tanks up front. Grab fresh dumplings, steaming bowls of soup and noodles off rolling carts. A perusal of the seemingly endless list of Cantonese treats reveals all the usual, Americanized suspects, but also a few unexpected treasures.

All Season Restaurant, 5238 Diamond Heights Blvd. (in Diamond Heights Shopping Center); (415) 282-8883 or allseasonrestaurant.com. Open daily.

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32. More than 50 years before Humphry Slocombe thought of making sweet summer corn ice cream, Mitchell's was experimenting with jackfruit, lucuma and ube.

Founded in 1953,[] beautiful models - Nikon D3000 - ZOL Zhongguanc, this family-owned business is first rate: Earlier this summer The Chronicle Food & Wine staff blind-tasted 45 ice creams from 15 locally owned shops, and Mitchell's consistently came out on top.

While Mitchell's leads the way, this square mile of San Francisco, where Noe Valley and Glen Park meet the Mission, includes other distinctive businesses such as the Sardinian-inspired restaurant La Ciccia, the Italian Incanto, and the city's only culinary bookstore, Omnivore Books.

Mitchell's Ice Cream, 688 San Jose Ave. (near Guerrero and 29th Street); 648-2300 or mitchellsicecream.com. Open daily until 11 p.m.

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33. In that little triangle where 280 and 101 converge, you will find superb Pinot Noir. Not just any Pinot, but those made at August West Wine.

In a 8,000-square-foot warehouse, skilled winemaker Ed Kurtzman turns out his own wines, plus those of Gary Franscioni's Roar label, using fruit from such top County sites as the Rosella's and Pisoni vineyards. Sandler, Von Holt and Cellars 33 wines are also made in the facility. Not the most scenic winery site, perhaps, but no urban wineries are. On the other hand, you can set up a visit to taste standout Pinot Noir without having to go even as far as Alemany. Score one for convenience.

August West Wine, 81 Dorman Ave. (near Barneveld Avenue); (415) 225-2891 or augustwestwine.com. Tastings available by appointment.

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34. Long before Willie Brown was, well, Willie, there was Sam <a href="" target="_blank">Jordan</a>. The "Mayor of Butchertown" got his moniker not only for being the city's first African American mayoral candidate in 1963, but also for holding sway over the community life of Bayview and Hunters Point from his bar, opened in 1959 on Third Street and Galvez Avenue. Rare was the civic leader who didn't make a stop there.

Sam <a href="" target="_blank">Jordan</a>'s Bar lives on, with many longtime devotees, including Charlie Genratt, a bartender from the early years (pictured above) still stopping in. Should you wander to the back, past the 49ers memorabilia and banquettes, <a href="" target="_blank">Jordan</a>'s House of Ribs serves succulent barbecue from a kitchen window - a perfect stop for a snack along the AT&T-Candlestick Park axis, and a mouthwatering tribute to the slaughterhouses that once filled this part of town.

Sam Jordan's House of Ribs, 4004 Third St.; (415) 282-4003. Open Wednesday-Monday.

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35. When it comes to the outer stretches of the Sunset and Lake Merced, perhaps the only thing that could possibly outlast the bygone Doggy Diner is the pink popcorn at the San Francisco Zoo.

Sticky, incandescent and often stale, the pink popcorn "bar," produced by San Francisco's Wright Popcorn & Nut Co. since the 1940s, holds a dear place in San Franciscans' hearts, bringing back memories of childhood outings. It's still available at the zoo, ready to create food memories for a new generation of lion-watchers and giraffe-gazers.

Just keep it away from the seagulls.

San Francisco Zoo, Sloat Boulevard and Great Highway; (415) 753-7080 or sfzoo.org. Open daily.

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36. Since it opened in the 1950s, Stonestown Galleria has never been a particularly good place to eat.

In fact, while the Bay Area food scene has embraced organics and shied away from chain restaurants, Stonestown has remained an anomaly, the city's last stronghold of suburbia.

Here is San Francisco's only Olive Garden. Like Chevy's next door, it is unfailingly packed on weekends, with people waiting outside during the dinner rush. And in a town where mall food might mean Charles Phan's Out the Door and Lark Creek Steak - two mainstays at Westfield Centre - at Stonestown there is a Hot Dog on a Stick, McDonald's and Sbarro.

But culinary evolution just ... might ... be inching its way toward Stonestown: There's now a Sunday farmers' market, and it's already one of the best in show.

Stonestown Galleria: 3251 20th Ave.; (415) 564-8848 or stonestowngalleria.com. Open daily.

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37. Bounded by St. Francis Wood and Ingleside, this square's commercial strip is Ocean Avenue, where Asian eateries and coffee joints - the beloved Caffe D'Melanio among them - proliferate. But so far up Ocean that it's almost in Square 36 sits Zanze's Cheesecake, which has sold souffle-like cheesecakes to loyal customers for the past 32 years.

Bespectacled Sam Zanze, owner and baker, listens to classical music as he bakes - without flour or butter - and packs up the delectable cloudlike cakes with a string of fishing line for slicing. He offers flavored cakes, but the traditional is his most popular. Taste one and you'll know why.

Zanze's Cheesecake, 2405 Ocean Ave. (near San Fernando Way); 334-2264. Open Wednesday-Saturday.

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38,peuterey uomo. In the Sunnyside neighborhood, our pick is City College of San Francisco's Culinary Arts and Hospitality Studies program,2010 Rock Wall Super Alamedan California Red ($20, 13.5%). The two-year program was the first of its kind in the United States, training future chefs, bakers and restaurateurs since 1936.

In addition to professional restaurant and hospitality training, the program also offers evening classes for home cooks. During the fall and spring semesters, full-service lunchtime dining is available at the student-run Pierre Coste Dining Room (11:15 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Monday-Friday).

The program's jewel in the crown, though, is the Alice Statler Library. Established in 1964, the library's impressive collection includes approximately 10,000 cookbooks and other food-related tomes, and hundreds of menus dating back to 1920. And it's all open to the public.

City College of San Francisco Culinary Arts and Hospitality Studies Program/Alice Statler Library, 50 Phelan Ave. (located on the south side of campus,<a href="" target="_blank">longchamp</a>, parallel to Ocean Avenue); Department: (415) 239-3152; library: (415) 239-3460 or ccsf.edu. Alice Statler Library fall and spring semester hours: 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Thursday, until 3 p.m. Friday. Summer hours vary.

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39. Mission Street is the main business artery in this square that covers the Excelsior and part of Glen Park. It's lined with dozens of Mexican, American and Filipino restaurants. Joe's Cable Car Hamburgers is also located here - it has a meat-grinding facility on the premises and has been in business since 1965.

However if you go to the less traveled strip of Diamond, you'll discover perhaps the best pizza parlor in the Bay Area: Gialina. Chef-owner Sharon Ardiana rode the pizza wave when she opened in 2007, creating pizzas with puffy, thin crusts that are more like fine pastry than dough. Last year she opened a second location: Ragazza on Divisadero (Square 17).

Gialina, 2842 Diamond St. (at Kern Alley); (415) 239-8500 or gialina.com. Dinner nightly.

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40. Just about every neighborhood has a farmers' market these days, but our love affair with them might not ever have blossomed without Alemany Farmers' Market, at the southern foot of Bernal Heights and Glen Park.

Alemany was California's first farmers' market when it opened in 1943 at Market and Duboce streets. With World War II ration books the order of the day, it was a way for farmers to bring any extra crops directly to the public. It was so successful it moved to its present location after the war and just kept on going.

Now, nearly 70 years later, there are more than 500 certified farmers' markets in the state, but it's hard to imagine any more vibrant than Alemany. Farmers, packed into mural-decorated cement bays, offer the exotic as well as the basic, ranging from tropical jackfruit and dragon fruit to every manner of Asian green. It's not all organic and it's not all pristine, but the prices are righteous and the crowds who throng here define multicultural San Francisco.

If you want to eat on the spot, grab some of the first-rate tamales, pupusas and other prepared foods from vendors who perfected on-the-spot cooking long before food trucks became the rage.

Alemany Farmers' Market, 100 Alemany Blvd. (at Peralta); (415) 647-9423 or </a>. 6 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday.

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41. Even as new branches of Brown Sugar Kitchen and Limon Rotisserie are leading an upcoming infusion of eating places in the south end of the Bayview, neighborhood staples like Auntie April's Chicken, Waffles and Soul Food have served Third Street for years. But sometimes a newcomer steals the show, which is the case with Frisco Fried.

Marcel Banks and his uncle Gregory (that's Geeto to you) opened this Giants-orange-hued spot last year to fill a void left by the closure of another neighborhood staple,polo femme, Mozelle's Kitchen. Their tender fried chicken (the birds are bought from nearby Tarantino's) combined with items like crab with caramelized garlic and noodles make this an only-in-San-Francisco endeavor.

Seeing as the Bankses are Bayview natives, a serving of their vinegar-inflected greens from a family recipe is a worthy, if unexpected, take on eating local.

Frisco Fried: 5176 Third St.; (415) 822-1517 or </a>. Open continuously for lunch and early dinner daily.

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42. No taco trucks, no bodegas, no nothing - to say that the little that remains of Hunters Point is culinarily challenged is an understatement. The Bayview looks like an oasis by comparison.

Yet the last, desolate stretch of Quesada Avenue before you enter Lennar territory is home to a little strip of artisanal food manufacturing. No Mangalitsa bacon being cured here - although Molinari's salami factory is just to the south - but you will find a bakery or two and the North American Noodle Co., where a crew of Chinese and Latino workers turn out fresh noodles, some of them hand-pounded, and dumpling wrappers that find their way into restaurants and markets across the Bay Area.

The noodles are mostly distributed, although you can purchase them direct if your negotiating skills, or bilingual talents, are sharp.

It is not the most expected sight in this stretch of town. But it is a reminder that food culture extends to every corner of the city - including those where even a corner market is a rare sight.

North American Noodle Co., 1175 Quesada Ave. (near Crisp Road); (415) 558-9360.

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43. The Olympic Club, established in 1860, is nearly as old as the city itself, but even more impressive is that it also bills itself as the oldest athletic club in the country.

The regal, Old World dining room at the Lakeside Clubhouse,outlet prada, perched off Skyline Boulevard, is one of the most beautiful in the city. Not only does it overlook the rolling hills of the adjacent golf course, but even the , 7 miles away, is visible on clear days. Stuffed leather chairs make for a luxurious evening, and though the Continental fare won't be winning any Michelin stars, it seems to fit the setting perfectly.

The members-only club is not open to the public, so if you want to experience the glamour of the weekly dinner buffet (caviar-topped deviled eggs,sac longchamp! carved turkey!), you'll have to pony up to become a clubber, or make friends with one.

Olympic Club, 599 Skyline Blvd.; (415)404-4300 or olyclub.com.

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44. There's not much to eat in and around San Francisco State, aside from the usual dorm food and pedestrian campus food. But then there's Taco Libre.

Not unlike San Francisco itself, Taco Libre shouldn't make sense, but it somehow works: It's an ingredient-driven taco shop, inspired by Mexican wrestling, courtesy of a white guy who used to work at a Japanese place. There are cartoons painted on the wall, and it's all located in a nondescript strip mall hidden in a Parkmerced back alley.

But you know what? It's pretty darn good. And don't think that college kids don't appreciate a fine breakfast burrito.

Taco Libre: 55 Cambon Drive (near Castelo Avenue); (415) 334-8226. Open daily until 9 p,prada Boston church prays for pastor abducted in E.m.

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45. Oceanview Supermarket features all the things you know and love about huge Asian supermarkets, and then some.

The owners have carved out an all-you-can-eat hot pot "restaurant" and Chinese deli in the corner of the market; and by carved out, we mean put up partitions. Diners construct the hot pots at their whim, with the add-on ingredients running the spectrum from the exotic (frog legs, pig intestine) to the usual (vegetables, chicken).

But a better bet might be to skip the bargain soup and its crowds, and opt for the Peking duck in the adjacent takeout area.

Oceanview Supermarket: 3995 Alemany Blvd. (between Kempton and St. Charles avenues); (650) 994-2138. Open daily.

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46. In San Francisco, you can find terrific food in the most unlikely of places. Witness Broken Record, a dive bar in the outer stretches of the Excelsior.

The place is the furthest thing from today's seasonal cocktail culture; it's a down-home pool table-and-crummy TV atmosphere. But head to the black-and-red room in back and you'll find some of the most interesting bar food around.

Shane Lavalley and James Moisey offer up the likes of artisan pulled pork on waffle fries - or "nachos gringos," as they call it - as well as creamy crawfish and bacon grits, buttermilk-fried chicken wings and goat cheese mac 'n' cheese. Their burger features bacon ground into the patty.

But lest you think it's all high fat and high cal, they balance things out with the likes of heirloom tomatoes on griddled brioche topped with house-made ricotta,polo ralph lauren, and griddled corn with house-made chorizo.

Ingredients are sparkling, flavors are bright and balanced, and the results once again show that in San Francisco, exciting food can be found anywhere.

Broken Record Bar and Kitchen, 1166 Geneva Ave. (near Edinburgh); (415) 963-1713 or </a>. Kitchen opens at 6:15 nightly. Cash only.

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47. For this square, which bumps up hard against the Daly City border, the hands-down choice is Cafe and Restaurant Montecristo, across from the Cow Palace.

Appearing like a civilized oasis in the midst of fast-food franchises, this spotless, cheerful place offers delicious Salvadoran home cooking.

Generous, cheesy pupusas come two to an order, good with the likes of fried yuca and pork. Gallina, the weekend chicken soup special, comes with a chunk of grilled chicken and fresh tortillas.

It's a friendly place to get a taste of the Central American tradition that is such a vital part of the fabric of San Francisco.

Cafe and Restaurant Montecristo, 2101 Geneva Ave. (at Carrizal Street); (415) 334-2326. Lunch and dinner daily.

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48. Food in Visitacion Valley, the saddle between Candlestick Park and the Cow Palace, is generally simple, small spots serving the area's residents, with few other aspirations - places like Happy Family Fast Food, which offers bargain-price dim sum (as in three pieces for $1.50). But the spot that captured our culinary heart is Piccolo Pete Liquor & Deli.

Set in a triangular block near the Bayshore Caltrain station and the end of the T Muni light-rail line, this is part liquor store, part hofbrau, washed down with occasional doses of live mariachi music.

Made-to-order grinder sandwiches stacked with deli meats and cheeses are a specialty, but there are plenty of other sandwich fixings, too. The choices don't stop there - a hot line of dishes like Italian sausage over rice and peppers, and at least a dozen soups are available daily. You can get them to go - this is a prime stop before 49er games - or eat at one of the tables outside on a lean-to patio. The place has been around for nearly 25 years, the weathered building much longer - a true San Francisco character.

Piccolo Pete Liquor & Deli, 2155 Bayshore Blvd. (at Tunnel Avenue); (415) 468-6601. Open daily.

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49. Our mile-by-mile food hunt ends with - what else? - a DIY adventure. With this southern-most stretch of Bayview a virtual food desert, it's time to break out the grill and gear up for a tailgate at Candlestick Park. Thousands of football fans have seemingly mastered the art, with elaborate buffet setups that include wine and cheese. But burgers and beer will do just fine - just don't forget the condiments at home.

Also, given recent events, the 49ers no longer allow tailgating after kickoff, so get there when gates open, four hours before game starts, to maximize your time.

Candlestick Park, 602 Jamestown Ave.</a>

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Next Sunday

The first installment of weekly exploration of each of the 49 square miles. Plus, regular Food & Wine features and our rooftop honey harvest.

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